is fashion how it seems??

From studying the fashion industry and seeing what it takes to become a professional I have learnt that the industry does live up to its stereotype - fast paced, demanding and creative.

Although exaggerated by the media, coming across as snobby, pretentious and glamorous I do believe that the fashion industry is a sector to be taken seriously. No matter how people view it, the industry is worth £21 billion and brings in a lot of benefits for the economy.

What it's really like? I'll find out when I get there. 

bric, tims, mint

BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, China)

Known for their natural resources, vast untapped wells and for exporting and making goods. Have a combined population of 3 billion. 

TIMS (Turkey, Indonesia, Mexico, South Korea)

Have all been through a financial crisis and have come out stronger after the recession with employment and businesses gradually growing making them important emerging markets. 

MINT (Mexico, Indonesia, Nigeria, Turkey)

Advancing infrastructure, increasing middle class and declining poverty. They have expanding financial, service, communications, and entertainment sectors - all offer young, growing populations.

Turkey's economy grew 10.3% last year - faster than China.

the future

THE INTERNET

-Marketers have been taking advantage of people's data, however, now consumers want to be invisible and be disconnected from the online world (THE NEW VALUE ECONOMY)

-HIJACK, an app that uses GPS and knows when you're in-store and then gives you a discount shows how brands can take advantage of consumer data and tailor benefits to then increase sales (similar to Nectar and Tesco club card)

'GOING NATIVE'

-Consumers now want to know where products come from and want to know their story (the convergence economy) 

-Now many are going against 'mega systems' (Amazon, Starbucks, Apple) as consumers are becoming wiser and want to shop independent and support local

-Therefore, brands must have a clear story in order to give the consumer more (online experiences etc)

-The age of collaboration, stand alone brands are struggling and rely on others in order to survive 

politics in fashion

FUR

-Used by many luxury brands: Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Prada, Louis Vuitton

-Annually, dealers and designers hunt 11 million mink pelts, 2 million foxes, 1 million assorted wild furs for fashion

-Now with technology fur can be dyed, thinned, making it more widely used

-Seen as very European and still very much used in the Western world

-Due to campaigns there are now no more fur farms in the UK
-More groups and designers are against the use of fur within fashion

YOUTH CULTURE

-Ft Vivienne Westwood and the punk cultures 1980s

-Influenced by underground music, pirate radio

-ID Magazine, The Blitz, The Face

-Giving clothing a sign and meaning within culture (semiotics)

-Wearing to offend

-Now, there are no outrageous fashion trends

-Employment, the way we're seen is too important

-No need for second hand and to upcycle with the popularity of fast fashion

MEN AND FASHION

-Catwalks do not target men (many no longer show)

-Celebrities are used as the face of brands in order to sell, David Beckham x H&M ..football considered very heterosexual

-Macaroni 18th century Italy, a man of high fashion considered a fool which has followed on to modern day

TRADITIONAL MODELS

-White, caucasian, young, slim women
-Consumers respond more favourably as models mirror their own identities (aspirational advertising) 

-Admired globally but does not target a realistic audience

intellectual property rights

BY ROUSE

TRADE MARKS

-Protecting the origins of products, brand names, logos, brand images, words, shapes, numbers

-Can be registered in the UK by application and registration

            Fred Perry

            £500,000 to trademark logo in every country (important in ASIA where factories can        rip off designs, China is aware of what's happening in the UK)

The word polo....

Registered for the sweet, logo, car, top (words can be used to different goods)

-Burberry check

-Loubitin soles

-Fred Perry logo        

-Gucci logo

-Nike tick

-Sound

-T-shirt label     

MUST BE 

        -Capable of graphic representation (can see it)

        -Distinguish goods and services

        -Distinctive, not descriptive

        -Not contrary to public policy/morality

THEREFORE

        -Can last for 10 years once registered

        -Can be canceled after 5 years if not used  

INFRINGEMENT

        -Identical mark/goods/services

        -Likelihood of confusion

        -Trademarks with a reputation, unfair advantage

PASSING OFF

        -Reputation

        -Misrepresentation

PATENTS

-Protects inventions (products and processes)

-Must be new and inventive

-Capable of industrial application (can be made)

-A national right, granted by individual countries

-A monopoly

-Lasts 20 years

PROVED BY DESCRIPTIONS, CLAIMS AND DRAWINGS

COPYRIGHT

-Protects expression of creative and artistic works

   -literary

   -dramatic

   -musical

   -artistic works

   -sound

-MUST BE ORIGINAL (a skill, effort, judgement) 

WHO OWNS IT

        -Creator

        -Films (producer and principle director)

        -Commissioned works

        -Work done as an employee (the employer)

ECONOMIC RIGHTS

        -Rights to do certain acts

        -Have commercial gain from your work

        -Prevent others from copying or using without permission

       

        -Copy the work

        -Issuing copies to the public

        -Renting/lending work 

        -Performing/showing

LASTS 

        -Duration of life + 70 years

        -If computer generated, sound, broadcast life + 50 years

EXCEPTIONS

        -Non commercial research

        -Criticism review

        -Reporting current events

        -Teaching in schools/colleges

DESIGN RIGHTS

MUST BE -New

        -Individual

        -Registered, don't need to prove someone has copied

ALSO USING REGISTERED DESIGN AS A MARKETING TOOL TO MAKE THE CONSUMER INTERESTED

MORAL RIGHTS

-Comes in as soon as you get copyright

-Named as author of the right (acknowledged as the creator of the work)

-Can be waived not assigned

-Duration is life of author + 70 years

CONFIDENTIAL INFO

-Recipe of Coca Cola etc

-Protecting the idea

CREATION

-Creating the idea (move far away from article you are using for inspo)

-Document development process

-Think about the ownership from the outset

   Employer owns everything you create

-Can be overridden by an agreement 

IMPLEMENTATION

-Licenses

-Assignments

-Enforcing your rights, monitoring them

-Starting a business, build a strategy budget for protection and enforcement

TO PROTECT YOUR WORK

-Consider which IP rights ar eappropriate for work

-Document designs using (C) TM (R)symbols (name and date)

-Confidentiality

-Registration

-Respect other peoples IP's

    

fashioning you, diversity in fashion

LONDON AND THE FASHION WEEKS

New York, the polished one

Milan, the one with the money - has the exclusives

London, creative, young and innovative

Paris, the original one (with Couture shown 2 months before RTW)

CHANGING ROLE OF FASHION

Fashion has dramatically changed in the past 20 years

Should fashion institutions think about diversity to make students commercially viable?

Does high fashion reflect modern Britain??

   -Currently, designers are out numbered by promoters as we discover the brand is more important as it needs to be controlled.

ALL WALKS BEYOND THE CATWALK (Debra Boourn, Erin Oconner, Caryn Franklin) teaching that fashion must speak to the public

MARY PORTAS "fashion is for women, not girls"

SIZE

Sophie Dahl
Beth Ditto.

Woman are now naturally taller, and consequently larger - therefore FASHION SHOULD ADAPT.

AGE

1950's - a connection between fashion and ourselves (can relate)
2000's - too white, too young

Men look to celebrities for style inspiration not to catwalks

HYPER REAL IMAGES, A DREAM - WHAT IS ACHIEVABLE??

THE EXOTIC OTHER (OTHERNESS/EUROPE/USA)

Donyale Luna, Naomi Sims, Iman, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington

"fashion is a mirror in which we see ourselves reflected"

With only one famous black model per decade, we ask ourselves, why must this be such a big deal?

"I didn't set out to make it a political message, but it struck me that if I'd used all white models, no one would have questioned it. The fact that people bring it up, it's obvious it's still an issue." Ashish on his diverse model casting 

 

Many look at Western fashion trends to influence globally

DASLU Sao Paulo, Brazil

GUM Moscow Red Square - armed with police and guns on the outside, the centre send out a clear message of who is allowed to shop in their centres

 

rave plus

WHO TO CONTACT

-Facebook page for opportunities

-j.eaton@rave.ac.uk

WHAT IT DOES

-Focusing on industry work, work placements, jobs and freelance opportunities

-Series of specific lectures, short courses and events in order to connect with the industry